Charles acquires the boat

Moved to Tom Gibson's garage

Clearwater work party at their 2005 festival

Moved to Tom Gibson's back yard under canopy

Bill Ward's talk to NMHA (11/17)

Bill Ward's consulting with Tom (11/18)

Under canopy in my back yard
Fall, Winter, 2005-6

Estimated people/hours: 9

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Rik van Hemmen, Walt Treacy, Tom Gibson

Pictures: Tom took pictures.

Put carpeting on the cradles. Got our work layout a bit more livable.

Discussed our goals. All agreed with the goals as documented by tom in the document "restoreProposal.txt". Discussed options on how to do the tanks, and the spinnaker launcher. No firm conclusions.

Numbered the carlins from fore to aft: 1..13. Numbers 5 and 12 are at the cockpit fore and aft ends respectively. Numbers 6...11 have S, P for starboard, port respectively. All numbers are on foreward side. Numbers 1..3 have the letter F to designate the foreward side.

Inspected the deck carlins/sheer clamp. Found lots of small rot places, and recorded them using the carlin numbers. "+hull" means the rot has spread a bit into the hull itself. ".5" means between the carlins. "inboard" means the rot is in the carlin along the cockpit edge. All others are in the sheer clamp. Here is the list...

Port:

1, 4, 5.5+hull, 6+hull, 6.5+hull

Stbd:

2, 4, 6 inboard, 7, 8, 9, 10, 10.5, 11

Measuring, and labeling the deck beams

We decided to remove and reset/replace all the carlins and the sheer clamp. Walt has some white cedar we can use. We started on this task.

We inspected the deck. It can be used again but must be repaired in major way and painted, not varnished. Replacement and bright finish is an option probably worth the cost and time. Postponed decision until we know our budget.

Next weeks goal: finish removing the carlins.

Subsequent: wood down the inside hull, including keelson and cb trunk. Cut new carlins where needed. Reassemble using epoxy glue. Add tanks. Add (hopefully new) deck. Varnish inside and deck 4 coats.

Studying the plans concerning deck and hull shape.

One control is the decks centerline is a straight line from stem to stern. Side note 3 on the plan gives instructions how to achieve this. This accounts for the "shims" we found on the top of each lateral carlin.

First (side note 2) determine the sheer line.

Then at stations A, B, C and D draw the hull together to the plan width. Then measure the vertical distance from the sheer to the stem-stern- straight-line. Then make sure B, C and D have the measured amount of crown. Lars did it with shims. An option is to cut the carlin with the measured crown.

Next weeks goal: finish removing the inside varnish, including keelson and cb trunk.

Subsequent: epoxy seal the inside. Cut new carlins where needed. Reassemble using epoxy glue. Add tanks. Add (hopefully new) deck. Varnish inside and deck 4 coats.

Saturday 11/26

More disassembly

Estimated people/hours: 13

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Bill Ward, Bill Comella, Tom Gibson, Mark Gibson

Pictures: Bob took pictures.

Removed sheer clamps, and with that all the carlins. Removed deck braces plywood verticals on the thwarts, and aft deck brace pole. Scraped down some but not all of the inside varnish.

The carlin assembly is saved, and many of its pieces can be reused.

Measured several critical measurements. One, the CB trunk and slot seem to be a couple of inches off spec. Bill Ward will check with the class registrar for an existing measurement certificate, to see if it is grandfathered.

Estimated people/hours: 9

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Bill Comella, Walt and Patricia Treacy, Martin Havemann, Bill Ward, Tom Gibson

Pictures: took pictures. Bob Ensor

Removed almost all the internal varnish.

Next Goal: Remove paint from exterior

Estimated people/hours: 6

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Martin Havemann, Bill Ward, Tom Gibson

Pictures: Bob and Tom took pictures.

Fastened protection to edge of hull where it rests on sawhorses. Turned boat over. Scraped lots of paint off. Removed 80% of an old repair that was not too well done. Exposed more dry rot, (but thankfully not serious).

Bill and Tom discussed options, budget, and market. We believe we can restore the hull to pristine and attractive condition for $1500, and using existing spars/sails (but probably new sheets) we can be in the water for a couple of hundred more.

Figure $500 more for a trailer, A MUST!

Donations of equipment (thank you Rik for the hardware) will bring this figure down.

Next Goal: Buy a gallon of ZAR stripper to get the rest of the paint off. Remove last of paint. Remove last of old poor repair. Make a Condon Marine buying list, and then go get the wood. Buy 2 gallons of epoxy, and (an as yet unknown quantity of) glass cloth, Dynel. First reconstruction: the proper keelson/stem repair, the sheer clamp, then the carlins.

Removing paint

Estimated people/hours: 15

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Martin Havemann, Charles Ladoulis, Bill Ward, Walt and Patricia Treacy, Tom Gibson

Pictures: Bob and Tom took pictures.

Removed almost all the outside paint. Used stripper on the hardest parts, which worked pretty well given the high 30's low 40's temperature. Bill removed the last of the wood from the old poor repair, but the glass cloth aft of the centerboard slot probably needs to be belt sanded off.

Next Goal: Remove the last of the glass cloth. Sand the wood with large smoothing sanding pads, 120 grit for starters. Need to make a couple of pads, and to get a roll of sandpaper. Get wood for new stem and fore-keelson strip.

Estimated people/hours: 12

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Charles Ladoulis, Bill Ward, Walt Treacy, Tom Gibson

Pictures: Charles and Tom took pictures.

Removed last of bad repair forward of CB. Started sanding off the repair aft. Dug out small patches of rot. Damage is negligable, fortunately. Made template of keel curvature from stem to CB slot. This needs fine tuning. Made a shopping list which was emailed to all.

Next Goals: Fine tune the template. Go shopping for proper wood, etc. Finish the glass cloth removal. Repair the keel and the stem. Sand the wood with large smoothing sanding pads, 120 grit for starters.

Estimated people/hours: 5

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Tom Gibson

Bob Ensor worked all day today, removing all the old repair aft and up beside the CB slot. I did a bit of work on the template for the fore-keel shape. The canopy is back up, and this time it is well guyed. Tonight is supposed to have 40 mph gusts, so that will be a good test. Mostly tied to stout trees, but I also drove 30" stakes into the ground with short ties to keep the west legs from lifting. I think it will stay there.

Next Goal: I think we really need to do our shopping trip soon. After today the keel repair cannot progress without the needed materal.

Estimated people/hours: 5

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill Ward, Tom Gibson

We purchased Mahogany for the keel, and started carving it. Put git-rot where needed.

Next Goal: Finish carving the keel.

Estimated people/hours: 7

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Bill Ward, Tom Gibson

Bob finished exposing the rot areas. These are all pretty tiny. The git-rot is mostly preventative. We believe they are there because the prior (many years ago) repair was poorly done. Bill continued the keel carving, and Tom did what is probably the final git-rot application.

Next Goal: Finish carving the keel. Final sanding the hull. Buy materials: epoxy resin for hull, and wood for carlins.

Estimated people/hours: 5

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Tom Gibson, Bill Ward

We made large sanding boards, and started using them to take high spots (whoop-de-do's) off the hull. (The terminology is Bills'.)

Estimated people/hours: 5

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob Ensor, Charles Ladoulis, Gayle Horvath

Pictures: Charles took pictures

Continued sanding the high spots (whoop-de-do's) off the hull. (The terminology is Bills'.)

Next Goal: Seal the hull with epoxy. Need a warm day to do this.

No work today. Instead we set up a display of our Wooden Boat Festival at the Keansburg, NJ "Hooked on Fishing" program.

Estimated people/hours: 0

It was just TOO COLD. Bill Ward and I spent some planning time together. Nobody else came.

Estimated people/hours: 5

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob, Bill, Tom

Pictures: Tom took pictures.

Nice warm day. Coated outside of hull with epoxy. Also we have donation of cedar and sitka for the sheer clamp and deck carlins from Bill and Walt. That should postpone our shopping trip for quite awhile.

Next Goal: Needs one more coat. Need to finish the keel. Then turn it over to start work on inside.

Estimated people/hours: 0

No work today. Several conflicts.

Estimated people/hours: 5

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob and Bill

[text by Bill]... I thought you might like to have an update from last Saturday. Bob Ensor and I worked in the afternoon. Bob did the sanding, getting ready for the next coat of epoxy on the hull. I continued to work on the keel repair. It is now nearly 85% complete and ready for screw holes. One more good Saturday, we should be able to complete the bottom and then on to the interior... which leads up to the next question.

Next Goal: Do we have enough "solid" lumber in your trash pile to complete the extensions and legs we have planned for the temporary support frame?

Tom's reply: I think so.

Estimated people/hours: 6

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Tom and Bill

After a 6 month hiatus (hey, we all have sailboats, and we all had a great summer in them) the work parties have resumed.

The keel repair is glued on. It needs shaping. Probably two weeks to shape and also to get another epoxy coat on the bottom. Then we can turn it over and start on the deck carlins and tanks.

Estimated people/hours: 10

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill Ward, Bob Ensor, Tom Gibson

Carved the keel. Sanded the bottom a bit more. Put the boat on its side and dripped epoxy glue into the keel/keelson joint in a few places on starboard side

Next Goal: More carving. Drip glue into joint port side.

Estimated people/hours: 0

Cancelled so we could participate in MBC floats out.

Estimated people/hours: 3

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Tom, Bill

Carved a bit more.

Estimated people/hours: 20

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill, Bob, Walt, Tom, Vince

Pictures: took pictures.

Turned boat over so port side was up. Carved port side of new fore-keel (Vince). Turned bottom up and carved both sides to symmetry (Bill). Built the strongback (Bob, Walt). Turned boat upright and put it onto the strongback. Leveled things.

Next Goal: We are ready for the shear repairs, and the shear clamps. That means we need to get serious about buying wood: sitka for the clamps, carlins, and tank cleats, and appropriate plywood for the decks and tanks.

Estimated people/hours: 15

Trip to Condon Marine Lumber, White Plains, NY.

Present: Bill, Bob, Martin, Tom

Condon Marine Lumber is 80 miles from Tom's house. But it is all fast roads, so it took only 90 minutes to get there.

This was our shopping list, and we got it all. The sitka board dimensions vary from the shopping list, but we have enough board feet with much to spare and enough length for critical stuff like the shear clamps. Also cut plans are in this list...

ITEM 2 pc - white cedar 3/4 x 6/4 x 16' f1s - sheer clamps NOTE: Must be 16' long. Can cut from 1x4x16. 6 bd ft.

ITEM white cedar deck beams f2s (extra width is for crown) NOTE: bd ft = 2x5/3 + 2x1 + 1x3/4 + 2x2 ~= 10. So these items can be cut from a single board at 10 bd ft with nothing to spare, or 12 bd ft for a bit of spare, (e.g. 1x12x12, or 1x10x15, or a pair of 1x8x10's). 2 - 3/4 x 4 x 60 - foredeck 2 - 3/4 x 3 x 48 - foredeck and aftdeck 1 - 3/4 x 3 x 36 - foredeck 2 - 3/4 x 2.5 x 96" - cockpit carlin ? - do we need deck blocks when we have tanks? Assume not. However in case we do add 10' 3/4 x 6/4 for carlin equivalent.

ITEM: 5+ BD FT - 1" white cedar f1s, min length 8' - tank cleats

ITEM - decking 2 - 1/4 x 4 x 8 cut plan: From one sheet: 29w x 64 long fore deck upper left corner of sheet 15w x 87 long side deck down right side of sheet 23w x 19 long aft deck lower left corner of sheet Check: fore beside side 29 + 15 = 44 wide, fits aft beside side 15 + 23 = 38 wide, fits aft below fore 19 + 64 = 83 long, fits

ITEM - tanks (assumes aft side tanks do NOT run to transom, but are bulkheaded aft) 2 - 1/3 x 4 x 8 cut plan: From one sheet: bulkheads, fore to aft: 1 - 24 x 50, 2 ea - 11 x 16, 11 x 15, 12 x 10 From one sheet: tank sides: 2 ea: 18 x 44, 15 x 49

Next Goal: Shear repairs, and the shear clamps.

Estimated people/hours: 6

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill, Tom, Bob

Pictures: Tom took pictures.

Vince loaned us a space heater, which we fired up for two hours in the morning. Then it became warm enough to work without it. We carved and glued in several little shear repair chips, 2 to 5 square inches each.

Next Goal: More chips. Plugs for the screw holes.

Estimated people/hours: 8

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill, Tom, Walt, Paul

Too cold to glue, but we carved 4 little repair chips. Walt and his friend Paul worked on the stem. We glued up a blank for the stem in my workshop, which is warm enough for the glue to set.

Next Goal: Glue these in.

Estimated people/hours: 3

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Tom, Bob

Pictures: Tom took pictures.

Glued in 5 chips on the shear line. Of course as we glued we found two places not noticed before. So we need two more carvings.

Next Goal: Two more chips. Plugs for the screw holes.
NOTE: Next work party is after the holidays, January 6, 2007.

Estimated people/hours: 8

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill (for awhile to consult), Bob, Tom, Paul, Walt, Pat

All the carlin screw holes are plugged, and all the little repair chips are done. Bob did the last of the chips, and Paul and I did the plugging. Also Bob put thickened epoxy in various little voids here and there. Next week maybe half an hour will sand all this down to a solid shear line, ready for the shear clamps.

We decided to give priority to the shear line because that when done opens up lots of parallel work. The stem is basically a trim board that can be done at any time.

Next Goal: Cut and install the shear clamps. Rough carve and install and finish carve the stem. At last we are doing construction.

Estimated people/hours: 8

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob, Paul, Tom, Bill

Pictures: Tom took pictures.

Planed, sanded, and otherwise shaped the shear repairs to recieve the shear clamp. Then put boat up on its side on two legs, again. Started scraping the interior. Bill's plan is to do all interior work before the shear clamps go on, and that wi

Next Goal: Interior down to wood. Then epoxy the inside except for the Honduras Mahogany. Put a bead of epoxy in various joints.

Estimated people/hours: 2

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bob, Tom

Very cold. Stripped about 5 square feet using chemical stripper. Quit early because of the cold.

Estimated people/hours: 4

Work party at Tom's.

Present: Bill, Tom

The following report is written by Bill...

To all Jet-14 work party members;
Tom and I worked for a short period last Saturday, scraping off more old varnish on the hull interior, especially around the seam areas at the keelson and centerboard trunk. The boat is still up on its side, which makes this part of job much easier than if it were laying in the support frame. There is still some stripping and scraping to be done, and then we can sand the exposed portions of hull, keelson, CB trunk, transom, and thwart. Once completed, we need to decide if it is warm enough for epoxy or if we opt to flip the boat to the other side for more prep work. Remember, we'll need to flip it back to get at the seams with a thin bead of epoxy and filler before the entire hull interior gets coated with (2) layers of clear-coat West System.

Another area of concern... Tom removed the port side wood support previously used for the center-board rigging drum and take-up line. There is still one more on the starboard side that must be removed. These supports also act as a "scab" over the butt joints between the mast step block, keelson and centerboard trunk. Unfortunately, they were too thick (0.75") and would have created problems with our new CB take up rigging. We will need to replace these "scabs" with a shaped piece 1/16" thick st. stl. and 1/8" plywood. There is a lot of stress generated at the forward centerboard trunk member that could cause cracks to develop in the sides if not structurally reinforced.

Finally, there is something to be said for attacking the CB trunk interior at this time. All the previous Jet-14 that I restored required some level of work INSIDE the CB trunk. There are a number of "butt" joints that were originally glued and screwed. The glue is long since degraded and these areas typically leak profusely. The best way to treat this is to get inside with long, thin tools; scrape away any old varnish, debris, or in our case, polyester resin. This is best described as "dental work". There is very little room to get into the trunk (0.75" slot), and the interior area is fairly large. In the past, I have fashioned all sorts of unique tools for the job: Long thin strips of oak with old sandpaper belts wrapped around, scraper blades attached to a 1/2" x 2" x 36" piece of lumber, etc. etc. Once cleaned, we need to seal the interior with epoxy. This should prevent any future leakage. If we don't do it now, we can always put the boat up on its side later. At this point we can't get at the underside of the hull, but we can do some level of work from where it sits.

I'll try and keep everyone updated with these emails in case I can't be there.

Bill Ward

P.S. The mahogany used for the CB trunk, thwart and transom are magnificent examples of old Honduras Mahogany. We want to keep these as varnished bright work. All epoxy should limited to the hull, keelson and associated seams. That said... before we start coating the hull, we should protect these areas with craft paper.